Each coat has a story to tell.

My designs are built on the principles of functional detailing, sustainable design and the use of quality fabrics.

The making process is such an important part of the journey for me and it’s something I share regularly but for this feature, we go even further back in the process from the first point of contact with the customer, through the design inspirations, to the finished piece.

To help tell the story behind the white ventile ‘Super Smock’, Tony has answered my questions. We go through the process of ordering a Custom Works design, what it means to him as well as the expectations vs reality of the final design.

It was really interesting for me to read about the process from Tony’s perspective and I hope you enjoy reading more about the depth of thought and time that has gone into this unique and detailed custom coat!

What first made you get in touch to commission a custom coat?

I’m a big supporter of sustainability and independent businesses; if I can shop local, I always will. I wouldn’t say I’m a particularly stylish person but I know what I like and the fact you offer something so unique really appealed to me, not to mention it would be hand made by you, in the UK.

The 'Super Smock’ is one of the most stand-out pieces I have made to date, would you be happy to share some of your personal and style inspirations behind having it made?

When I was a kid, I remember watching the WWII film Where Eagles Dare, starring Richard Burton & Clint Eastwood. I was super young, maybe only 7 or 8 years old when I first saw it, but I shall never forget the Snow Smocks which Burton & Eastwood wore in parts during that film. Even at such a young age, I knew the outerwear these megastars donned were cool, but could have never imagined back then, they would be ‘on trend’ 40 years later. The white fabric choice was a bold move but because of my memory as a kid, it was a no brainer and bringing in the orange liner gave a great contrast. I’m big into detail too and the pockets really helped bring this particular piece bang up to date. Why Ventile? Well, it went into production in 1943 and was widely used by the Royal Air Force and British Armed Forces … and this is the year when Where Eagles Dare was set, so for me, it really tied things in well.

The nature of the Custom Works service means that you can never see your coat before it is made, how easy or difficult did you find it to communicate with me on what you wanted the finished piece to look like and was there anything in particular that helped you with this?

One of the design sketches from the process of this Custom Works coat.

I always start with a jumble of ideas in my head and often try to draw them out as best I can and then back them up by email. Somehow, then, you manage to make sense of this (!) and provide sketches, and I find these really useful. It’s at this point that I am able to start and visualise how the piece might look. Discussions with you around fabric, colour & design all follow relatively easily after that. I find not only are you a skilled artisan Kerrie but you totally understand fashion and what works and what doesn’t. So you often steer me when I am undecided, and as I totally trust your judgement, it works well .. very well in fact!

For you, what makes a Custom Works jacket so special compared to a ready to wear style?

This is an easy one … The fact you have created something so unique makes them so special – a one of one creation that you won’t see anybody else wearing. I’m starting to understand the processes you follow now and for you to take so much care and time with each garment is again something that really appeals to me. The choice you offer on materials, designs, details and of course, the fit, encapsulates Custom Works perfectly … As a customer, you can pretty much have what you want and you’re always keen to push the boundaries! Your attention to detail is second to none too, as I remember the ‘Super Smock’ was as good as finished but you weren’t happy with the drawstring toggles. Instead of just sending it to me, you went the extra mile and ordered different ones knowing that they would finish the smock off better than the original ones. It’s things like this, that really set you miles ahead of anybody else.

I always enjoy seeing what trainers you pair with each custom piece (my personal favourite being the Hacienda match!) is this something you have in mind when choosing your custom works style, fabrics and fit?

Thanks, Kerrie 😊 With the Hacienda tribute jacket, yes, absolutely! I’d had those particular trainers for a couple of years and they were the start of ideas for ‘Project FAC51’. In general, though I am very fortunate to have so many colours and variations of trainers that no matter what we chose as far as fabric, style etc, I’d be able to match a pair. Having said that, as each Custom Works piece progresses (and my head starts to empty its’ ideas into your email inbox), I do start to think about what might go with the jacket we are working on. The orange lining & zip detail of the smock lent itself to probably six or so pairs that all looked great, but when I introduced the matching orange Custom Works Bucket Hat, the SL80 were the winning pair.

Custom Works ‘The Haçienda’ paired with a pair from Tony’s collection. Photo credit @torkertony

What is your favourite detail on the smock?

Wow … The shortest question but most difficult to answer as there are so many! Well, the fit for starters is perfect. You aced the material by working with Ventile and I love the funnel neck …. But if I could only choose one detail, it would have to be the pockets, all of them!! The size, shape and positioning of each one really take things one step further. It’s the sort of piece that at first glance, you notice a hand full of details, but the more you look, the more you see … the back pocket, for example, is there, discrete, but such a cool addition.

How did your expectations of this piece compare to the reality of having it in your hands?

It blew my mind! I was slightly nervous as we’d made some bold decisions but I have to say, the minute I opened the box and unfolded the smock, I was wowed. And when I tried it on, all those memories of Where Eagles Dare came flooding back! The attention to detail was off the scale and the whole piece is such a credit to you. It’s something I always look forward to wearing and something I will keep forever.

And lastly, was it worth the wait?

Definitely!! I look forward to receiving the finished item so much and it wouldn’t matter whether it took 4 weeks or 40 … I just know, when it arrives, it will be something so special, unique and will absolutely stand the test of time.

The ‘Super Smock’ as seen on. Photo credit @torkertony

You can find out more about the Custom Works service here.

Sign up to the mailing list on the homepage for updates and to find out when more custom spaces will become available.

Kerrie.

Custom Works - The inspiration and ideas behind the coat. Feature 001