Custom Works - The inspiration and ideas behind the coat. Feature 003

I started this blog series to help tell the bigger story surrounding some of my Custom Works pieces. This feature tells the story of not one but two custom coats which were made for Reis. If these two designs don’t show the diversity of the Custom Works process, I don’t know what will! Both coats are entirely unique and use a variety of skill, detail and use of fabric. So let’s dive right in…

What first made you get in touch to commission a custom coat?

Scrolling through Instagram and my mate Tony posted a picture of this “Super Smock” made in Ventile (you can read my Q&A with Tony on this piece here). It looked absolutely stunning, the design and colours really made this thing pop, so I had to look into who designed it. See plenty of smocks out there but there was something about this one, had proper flair. I messaged Tony about Kerrie and the Custom Works and expressed how brilliant it was. After having a delve into Kerrie’s portfolio I had to have a jacket made by her. Both her Custom Works gallery and staple silhouettes were all fantastic. Had many jackets from different designers but these were in a different league so having one was a must.

Would you be happy to share some of your personal and style inspirations behind having it made?

So I have had two Custom Works made by Kerrie, with more on the horizon.

“The Miami Rescue Smock”

For this I really wanted to encapsulate my love for Architecture, particularly that of 1980’s Miami. Having graduated as an Architect this was something I wanted to combine with another passion of mine, fashion. The actual silhouette was inspired by post war mountain rescue smocks, which were long with loads of pockets. I wanted pockets on the arms, front envelope pocket and a P-44 inspired on the rear of the jacket giving it that utility feel. The colour pallet was inspired by some of my favourite Architecture situated on Ocean Drive which included: “The Breakwater”, “The McAlpine” and “The Marlin Hotel”. This really accentuated that cocaine war/Miami Vice feel that was synonymous with the 1980’s in a jacket. I will say Kerrie instantly got what I was going for, she refined all the details and inspirations so well which made it so much better. There are so many details so it’s best to look at the picture to really appreciate them.

“The KerrieALDO Mac”

This was my second piece created by Kerrie. Again, full of details and a really nice contrast between the rust Halley Stevensons fabric and oatmeal cord. I was already eyeing up the KerrieALDO Mac as a base, and I wanted to accentuate tailored elements on this next piece. On bespoke suits the angle of pockets, shoulders and collars are designed specifically to draw attention to specific elements of the body and I wanted to apply this practice to a jacket. The way this was applied to the pockets was insane! The top pockets are box pleated with hand warmers just behind and that angled cord flap sitting on top, these draw attention to the zip concealment flap that is a key Kerrie Aldo feature. Rather than having a hood we proceeded with a refined cord collar which tied it all in nicely. Again, my description or pictures don’t do this piece of art justice. Thanks again Kerrie.

The nature of the Custom Works service means that you can never see your coat before it is made, how easy or difficult did you find it to communicate with me on what you wanted the finished piece to look like and was there anything in particular that helped you with this?

Working with Kerrie is unbelievably easy and a pleasure. I think when it comes to design what we imagine doesn’t necessarily come out as expected, but I’ve got to say that Kerrie absolutely kills it with the execution of the final product, and it exceeds all expectations. The process involves loads of back and forth between yourself and Kerrie, which to me shows how she’s meticulous when it comes to bringing your ideas into fruition. There is genuine care and expertise conducted through the whole process so not seeing your coat doesn’t matter to me, I know what I’m going to get is the dogs! Kerrie would constantly keep you in the loop regarding the Custom Works, I would say to her do what she feels best as I know your judgement is spot on, which it is! In Kerrie we trust.

For you, what makes a Custom Works jacket so special compared to a ready to wear style?

I find the overall process is what makes it special. Ultimately, you’re getting an amazing one of coat that you’ll never see anywhere else, but getting to that stage makes it so unique. The fact that you design it yourself and work with someone who’s not only passionate at what she does, but is an expert at the craft, make the process so much more personal than just buying a coat of the rack. What I’ve found, and most folk who’ve had a piece created by Kerrie, is the amount of labour and love dedicated into creating these pieces of art. Being involved all the way from inception to completion makes it more than just a jacket.

Both of your Custom pieces are off the scale and have a huge focus on detailing. We really have considered every single inch of each design, do you have a favourite detail or part?

This has to be one of the hardest questions to answer! What I have said numerous times is that Kerrie is absolutely killing the detailing of the pockets! I’ve described Kerrie’s approach to detail “like fine tailorship on outwear”, something I feel goes under the radar. Every piece she creates just oozes exceptional quality and craftsmanship, something that is getting much harder to find nowadays but she makes it an integral part of her designs.

“The Miami Rescue Smock”

This one has way too many details to comment on. From the contract stitching to placement of the pockets, the effort put into this was unlike anything you’d receive from a high-end fashion brand, which make the Custom Works even more special. The details on the pockets are next level, featuring contrasting panels with Harris Tweed closure flaps. Harris Tweed is a fundamental material used on this piece and Kerrie’s input really helped, applying it where it would really pop. Even the colour of the zips was meticulously thought of to go with the colour pallet. By far one of the best jackets, I’ve ever owned.

“The KerrieALDO Mac”

What I love about this is the detail more behind the scenes. Again, pockets were something that Kerrie absolutes smashed and applied that fine tailorship finesse. All the cord flaps and rear yoke follows a 45-degree angle, something that is subtle but draws attention to the details. The rose lining is something that I saw in another Custom Works which I had to have. Another nice touch was Kerrie designed a hat in the same fabrics to my requested specifications, which more of a boonie style.

Is there anything specific that has influenced your own style and the way you like to dress?

I have always worn things that I like which are a little different and unique. I’d say my style is a mashup for all the designers and cultures I like. Massive fan of old 60’s & 70’s luxury leisurewear look, particularity when we started seeing Italian knits and tennis gear worn more formally, so Fred Perry is an absolute staple for me, bit of a collector with that. Another aspect of my style is layering, sleek shirt or polo under a chunky knit or track-top, finished with a waxed jacket is what I’m chipping about most times. I either look like a 70’s school kid or a Scandinavian fisherman, both styles I love. Will mention, if it’s a little out there or made from a funky fabric I’m on it, as shown in the Custom Works, fabric choice is fundamental in my styling. Harris Tweed, Liberty London, British Millerain, Fox Brother etc. these are all fabrics used in my own styling so having them in Custom Works is must.

Huge fan of: Nicholas Daley, Kenneth Menzies 6876, Nigel Cabourn and Hawkwood Mercantile, which was another reason why I was drawn to Kerrie, she shares the same philosophy and exceptional attention to detail as myself and these designers I favour.

How did your expectations of this piece compare to the reality of having it in your hands?

My expectation on both pieces were blown away. I knew the final jackets were going to be very special but actually seeing the designs develop, then finally having them in the flesh is a crazy feeling. I do think this is one of these things where you need to get one to experience it. Like I’ve mentioned previously, these are like pieces of art. 1 of 1 personal concept brought to life by an expert craftswoman who knows her stuff.

And lastly, was it worth the wait!?

Yes! I’ll be honest the wait isn’t even that long considering what you’re getting, plus Kerrie keeps you updated every step of the way. I think it says it all when you’ve gone back and ordered another Custom Works (as well as other projects and pieces) from Kerrie. This is a totally unique service that I couldn’t recommend enough. For anyone who likes their jackets, whether they be traditional or tech, get ones of these and you’ll get it. Until the next one Kerrie.